The 9 lives of the Église Sainte-Marie in Sarlat-la-Canéda
From Holy Ground to Heavenly Flavors:
The Rebellious Rebirth of Sarlat's Sainte-Marie Church
In the heart of Sarlat-la-Canéda stands a church that refuses to be one. The tale of the église Sainte-Marie is no pious prayer; it’s a chronicle of civil revolt, religious drama, and brilliant reinvention.
A Church Born from Civil Fury
The story begins in the 14th century, with Sarlat's parish church in a state of utter ruin. Fed up with years of clashing with church authorities, the city's proud citizens decide to take matters into their own hands. On July 25, 1365, they make a revolutionary move: demolish the old structure and build a new, grander church themselves.
To fund this unprecedented project, they impose an extra tax upon themselves. Not pious donations, but a forced investment in their own pride. As a result, the first stone is laid three years later. But the Hundred Years' War throws a wrench in the plans, and construction drags on, transforming the church into a monument to sheer tenacity.
A Bishop Who Turned His Back on God
Centuries later, the French Revolution unleashes a wave of chaos that proves fatal for the Diocese of Sarlat. The church loses its status, and that’s when the real drama unfolds.
A respected dean, Pierre Pontard, is elected "constitutional" bishop. Sent to Paris as a delegate, he does the unthinkable on September 23, 1793: he renounces his priesthood. Swept up in the revolutionary fever, he not only publicly declares his loss of faith but promptly gets married!
A bishop forsaking God… mon Dieu. The news delivered a devastating blow to the people of Sarlat.
The search for his successor proved just as dramatic. Fierce protests delayed the next priest's ordination in 1800 for a full year, forcing the ceremony to be held in secret in Bordeaux. Peace was only restored when the new priest died a year later, finally closing this turbulent chapter of ecclesiastical leadership.
From Weapons Factory to Foodie Heaven
Stripped of its sacred purpose, Sainte-Marie embarked on a series of bizarre careers, serving as a weapons and saltpetre factory, a bakery, and even a coal warehouse.
In 1815 the old building was sold off in eight lots. The new owner even demolished part of the choir to sell the stones, leaving the church seemingly doomed. The city had to step in, buying back the land to create a public square.
After a stint as a post office (1905-1935) and decades of lying vacant, a new hero appeared on the scene: top architect and Pritzker Prize laureate Jean Nouvel was commissioned for its transformation. His vision was as brilliant as it was logical: a place that once nourished the soul should now fill the stomach.
In 2001, he unveiled the result. Behind two gigantic, iconic steel doors now lies the most stunning covered market in the Dordogne. Where prayers were once whispered, the temptations of foie gras, truffles, and local wines now beckon.
The Église Sainte-Marie stands as the ultimate symbol of resilience: a holy house that traded heaven for earth, and in doing so, found its true glory.
Visit the Covered Market:
· Nov - Mid-March: Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat (8:30 AM - 1:00 PM)
· Apr, May, Oct: Daily (8:30 AM - 1:00 PM)
· Jun & Sep: Daily except for Friday (8:30 AM - 1:00 PM) | Friday (8:30 AM - 4:00 PM)
· Jul & Aug: Mon, Tue, Sun (8:30 AM - 1:00 PM) | Wed, Sat (8:30 AM - 5:00 PM) | Thu (8:30 AM - 9:00 PM) | Fri (8:30 AM - 6:00 PM)
